GAP Ride & Raft 2022

In August 2022, while the rest of the East Coast suffered under an oppressive heat wave, Crew 128 enjoyed a steady 12 mph breeze in the shade, cold mountain whitewater, and the finest maple syrup in the Mid-Atlantic.  This is the story of our Great Allegheny Passage (GAP) Ride & Raft high adventure trip.

Our Delayed High Adventure Decision

Crew 128, still operating under the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic, had a slow start identifying its high adventure program for the summer of 2022.  A big concern, as in 2021, was to plan a trip that would be flexible enough to account for last minute quarantines, outbreaks, or individual infections.  Paying for airline tickets, pricey camps, and more seemed to make little sense if the pandemic affected the participants after all arrangements had been made.   After considering several options--Maryland AT, the Summit, canoeing the James, etc.--we decided that a 148.8 mile bike ride from Pittsburgh, PA to Cumberland, MD, with a stop in Ohiopyle, PA for rafting, would satisfy the interests of many participants.  It also provided flexibility for some Venturers to join mid-trip or just do the rafting.  Further, it was close enough to home to avoid airfare.  

Lunch in the shade at the Homestead Pump House facility, site of a famous  steel workers' strike in 1892.

Bike Touring?  How Civilized!

What does bike touring offer over other high adventure opportunities like backpacking or canoe trips?  Consider this: 

The Plan

Deciding where to go and what to do leads to more questions.   Next came questions about when, for how long, transportation, and more.   We found that the first week of August gave us a suitable window and agreed to a six-day itinerary of traveling, camping, biking, and rafting.

Six Day Intinerary

Crew Chief, Details, and Preparation

A high adventure crew is a team, but it has leaders.  The Venturers elected a crew chief whose primary job was to ensure we had crew assignments, meals plans, and equipment inspections.  Adults focused on making reservations for campgrounds, rafting, and transportation.   We also hoped to have a few preparation rides, but most riders were out of town this summer ( internships, BSA camp counselors, college summer experiences, etc.) so a crew-size preparation ride did not occur.   

Transportation planning included a night when everybody brought their bikes to St. John's to confirm that we had enough drivers and bike racks to carry our gear to Pittsburgh.  Two nights before the trip, nearly everybody assembling to verify their equipment and distribute the first few meals to carry to Pittsburgh.   That night ended with an Advisor's Moment that featured a discussion of the informal motto of the U.S. Coast Guard and other services: Semper Gumby, meaning "always flexible."  This also became the informal theme of our trip.

Day One - Travel to Camp Guyasuta

Semper Gumby  from Day One.  On Tuesday morning, we met at St. Johns parking lot.  We planned to have three cars, three drivers, and nine riders.  But the corona virus struck over the weekend, and the third driver arrived with a sad look on her face. Her husband an assistant advisor, tested positive for Covid-19.  Similarly, her son was feeling so sick he stopped packing over night.  Quickly adjusting, we figured a way to take the remaining riders in two cars, using two bike racks rather than three.  Fortunately, one bike, disassembled, could fit in a van. 

Our trip to Pittsburgh lasted about five or six hours, including a stop for lunch in Breezewood.  We arrived at Camp Guyasuta just as the clouds were ready to burst.  Fortunately, we reserved the Webelos Pavilion as our camping area, so we had a nice, dry place to land with plenty of room for our gear.   

Camp Guyasuta was a perfect "base camp" for launching our expedition.  Technically in Swinton, PA, it is only about 8 miles to the heart of Pittsburgh where the GAP Trail begins.  There was plenty of firewood on hand, flat places for tents, and running water.  Our only disappointment was that the showers (at the pool) closed after 4 PM and did not open until after our departure on Tuesday.  In the big scheme of the trip, that was of little consequence.

Day Two - Guyasuta to Cedar Creek Park

After a quick breakfast at camp, we packed up our bikes, and our one remaining driver delivered us to downtown Pittsburgh at State Point Park, where the Monongahela and Allegheny Rivers converge to form the Ohio River.  After a few snapshots, bike inspections, and rest stop, we were on our way to Cedar Creek, about 39 miles upstream.

Along the way, we passed through historic steel mill territory in Homestead and McKeesport.  We crossed the Allegheny and Youghiogheny Rivers three times.  As this was the first day of riding, Semper Gumby was once again the theme for the day.  

Several Venturers had learning experiences:

These learning experiences should have occurred during a full-blown shakedown overnighter.  But our teenagers were simply too busy with misaligned schedules to find a suitable weekend in June or July.  Nevertheless, we were prepared and remained flexible.  We had:

Waiting to fix the bike, actually, was not all bad.  While dad and sad Venturer were in the bike shop, the rest of the crew lounged above on a restaurant deck, devouring appetizers, downing glasses of lemonade, and even falling asleep in a chair.

Five miles later, we arrived at our reserved campsite in Cedar Creek Park.  

Day Three - Cedar Creek to Ohiopyle State Park

We had a beautiful, reserved campsite in Cedar Creek Park.  It was flat, next to the Youghiogheny River, and had clean rest rooms.  Our crew aimed for a 8:30 departure, but packing issues and the need to rebandage some hands meant a late departure.  Nevertheless, we ultimately got on the road to Ohiopyle, 38 miles to the southwest.  

Whereas the ride on the first day had about 17 miles of pavement, the second day (and the rest of the trip) featured crushed gravel nearly the entire distance.  For the most part, it was a wonderfully relaxing ride, in the shade along the river.  We stopped for lunch near a scenic overlook on an old rail road bridge, and resupplied at a grocery store in Connellsville during a brief rain shower.  We downed a gallon of lemonade while waiting for the storm to pass.

This was the first day that really gained elevation.  The trip was faster than the day before, but still, we were pressed by afternoon storm clouds as we snaked our way up the mountains to Ohiopyle State Park.  But soon enough, toward the end of the afternoon, we reached our goal.  We continued a bit further to explore the "high bridge" over the Youghiogheny that leads to the town of Ohiopyle and saw the rapids we would shoot in the morning.  We then walked our bikes up a very steep, shale path toward our campsites in the clouds.  By the end of the day, we had ridden a total of 70 miles over two days and ascended into the famed Laurel Highlands.  

As planned, three rafters and one new biker joined our crew after driving from Northern Virginia.   With them came a stack of chipotle-seasoned kabobs to cook over our open fire.  But very heavy rain threatened our ability to light a camp fire and a power outage in town eliminated any option to drive (we now had access to two cars) to town for dinner.  After a break in the rain, the Scouts coaxed a fire to life (without accelerants!), and we had a late dinner featuring grilled veggies and chicken kabobs served on naan bread.  It was absolutely tasty, warming, and satisfying!

Day Four - Rafting, Pizza, and Ice Cream

After a good breakfast, we walked about a mile into Ohiopyle to our rafting outfitters.  We arrived at Wilderness Voyageurs on time, ready for rafting on the lower segment of the Youghiogheny.  

Our raft run lasted about four hours, and involved 17 named sets of rapids.  Naturally, there were splashing battles and the opportunity to swim in the refreshingly cold water.  Best of all, of course, was running the whitewater.  We found it hard to stay in the boats at times, but amazingly, nobody fell in despite many near misses.  (We don't have pictures because nobody was silly enough to bring a phone rafting!  Sorry.)   

We ran the river in the midday, so we planned to have lunch afterward at Paddlers' Pizza in town.  Four large pizzas, served outside, hit the spot.  Perhaps we were starving, but our food critics universally agreed that Paddlers' Pizza had perfect crusts and outstanding flavor.

After pizza, we headed for the falls and the museum.  The bottom of the falls marked the beginning of raft trip that day, and the associated park featured a museum devoted to the history, geography, and opportunities in the Laurel Highlands.  Afterward, we bid farewell to one of our rafters and one biker.  We ended the day in town eating ice cream in the shade before walking back to camp.  That night featured a light meal based on left over supplies, a campfire, and showers.  It was a good day in the Laurel Highlands!

Day Five - 40 Miles Up Hill along the Casselman River

We embraced the flexibility of bike camping in the morning.  Most of the riders on this trip were Eagle Scouts, so nobody needed to cook a meal for a rank or merit badge requirement.  Instead, we packed our bikes and gear, walked down the trail to the GAP, and rode to town for a hot breakfast.  Fresh eggs cooked to order, hot coffee, and croissants eaten al fresco on the patio.  Bike touring really is quite a sophisticated version of high adventure!

We anticipated that this day would be the most challenging.  Not only did we intend to go 40 miles, but we knew it was all up hill before we ended in Meyersdale.  Nevertheless, it was an utterly enjoyable ride for the first 37 miles.  

Our first stop occurred in Confluence, PA.  As the name implies, two rivers--the Youghiogheny and the Casselman--converge here.  Navigating through town, we resupplied at a local grocery store.  There we purchased sandwiches for lunch and bandages, gauze, and antiseptic wipes to restock the first aid kit.  We also visited a local bike shop because the newest rider did not have bike gloves, and another rider needed to replace his headlight for the tunnels we would soon traverse.

We stopped for lunch in a shady spot just before crossing the Pinkerton High Bridge.  After crossing the bridge, we immediately entered the Pinkerton Tunnel and then crossed the Pinkerton Low Bridge.  These bridges had wonderful views, but we really were looking forward to the Salisbury Viaduct near Meyersdale.  This 1,908-foot structure is 101 feet above the Casselman River and surrounding farms.  We have no pictures, however, because storms broke just before we crossed.  With no thunder or  lightning, the Crew Advisor permitted the crossing.  After waiting out the storm in another tunnel, we reached Meyersdale train station--the end of the trail that day--around 4 PM.  Dripping wet, we arrived at the Meyerdale Maple Festival grounds where we had reservations for the night.  

Somerset County is famous for its maple syrup.  Every year it holds a Maple Festival at a dedicated parcel in the middle of town.  When not having a festival, the owners provide camping facilities for riders on the GAP and offer a discount for Scouts.  It was still raining when we arrived, but we took advantage of the converted stables (now used by vendors) to set up tents without tarps under the roof.  We hung our tent tarps and soaked clothing out to dry.  After showers and changing into fresh clothes, we walked the town and found a restaurant that we will not name because it really was awful.   The night ended by the campfire with Ventures playing cards.  

Another good day on the GAP.

Day Six - Over the Eastern Continental Divide and Down to Cumberland!

Our last day featured a few miles of the steepest climb of the trip, crossing the Eastern Continental Divide, riding through the Big Savage Tunnel, drinking in the views from atop Big Savage Mountain, crossing the Mason-Dixon Line, and riding downhill for 23.8 miles to Cumberland on the steepest part of the trail.  It was perfect, but far too brief.

As the saying goes, sort of, "When in Meyersdale, do like the Meyersdalians."  That means trying some of the local maple syrup on pancakes at  Donges's Drive-In and Motel.  It actually was a sit-down restaurant, across the street from the campground.  The pancakes were huge, but so were our appetites.  It was a great way to "carbo-load" before riding to Cumberland.

We reached the highest point of our ride after riding a total of 125 miles uphill from Pittsburgh.  The Eastern Continental Divide is line were rain water flows to the east toward the Atlantic on one side, and to the west toward the Mississippi on the other side.  Off course, we took pictures on both sides!

We picked up speed at this point and soon reached the Big Savage Tunnel.  The tunnel is 3,291 feet long and served the Western Maryland Railroad.  It is so long and dark that it seems to have its own weather system.  Outside, it was about 80 degrees.  Inside, it was 60 degrees and foggy.  Emerging from the tunnel revealed how high we really had climbed.  After 125 miles, the flat trail in Pittsburgh, at 712 ft. above sea level, rose to 2,392 at the continental divide.  Now we saw the results on the other side of the tunnel, and we had to stop to admire the view.

Riding down from the heights was dramatically easier than the prior three days of riding.  We could effortlessly coast at 15 mph.  The ride carried us down the mountain past farm fields below, and forests above.  After Frostburg, we rode next to the active rails serving the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad.  We meet a train as it chugged up the mountain with three carriages in tow.  

No descent lasts forever, including this one.  Coming into Cumberland 25 minutes ahead of schedule, we met our first driver at the end of the trail.  After 148.8 miles, plus added miles to groceries and bike shops, we were at the end of the trail.  Soon the other drivers arrived, and we loaded up the bikes for the drive home.  Our adventure was complete.